The Ultimate SeaPaint Guide: Everything You Need to Know

     

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    If you've been staring at a piece of furniture wondering if SeaPaint will actually work on it, the answer is probably yes. Wood, metal, plastic, stone, concrete, fabric, leather...SeaPaint works on them all and more with minimal prep and no priming required. Here's everything you need to know to get a great finish every time.


    GRAB YOUR FAVORITE SHADES AND A BOTTLE OF OUR TOPCOAT SEAGLASS DURING THE NEXT PURCHASE EVENT AND THE SUPPLIES BELOW TO GET STARTED 


    Do You Need to Prime?

    No. SeaPaint does not require primer. Clean your surface, make sure it's dry, and you're ready to go. Priming is an option if you want it, but most projects don't need it. We only offer our primer called Wipeout once a year.

    Sign up for the waitlist so you don’t miss it. 

    How far does one jar go?

    One Tablespoon Goes Further Enhanced

     

    One jar cover 139 sq ft. For a visual reference, one jar can easily do two dressers 

     

    MORE FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS


    How to Apply SeaPaint

    1. Shake your SeaPaint well (separation is completely normal.)

    2. Clean surface with alcohol and a damp cloth to remove residue or grime.

    3. Using your dry Brush or roller, apply the first coat with light pressure and long strokes. The key here is to not over-brush. Hit it and quit it. SeaPaint goes 8 times as far as latex paint and 4 times as far as acrylic, so dip sparingly.

    4. Let the first coat dry for at least 3 minutes, then apply your second coat the same way. Another 3 minutes and you're ready to finish.

    5. Optional distressing or faux finishing techniques can be applied here. See section below. 

    6. Brush on our topcoat called SeaGlass to seal and protect your piece (optional for shelf decor or walls signs, required for furniture and high traffic items)

    Distressed Look

    This is where the Weathering Sponge comes in. Once your second coat is dry, run the sponge lightly across the surface to smooth out any brush strokes for a clean, polished finish. Want something with more character that looks like it's been well loved over time? Apply more pressure. The harder you press, the more the layers underneath come through, giving you a worn, aged, layered effect.


    How to use topcoat (SeaGlass)

    1. remove all dust with a damp or dry cloth
    2. dampen your brush, squeezing out excess water
    3. dip brush (a little goes a long way - thin coats are best)
    4. use long smooth strokes, redampening as needed
    5. apply up to 3 coats

    Pro tip: for really slick surfaces like plastic or glass, apply a coat of the topcoat SeaGlass first, before applying your first coat of SeaPaint for extra grippy adhesion.


    A Few Tips Worth Repeating

    • Light pressure, long strokes, always.
    • Dry brush for application. Damp brush for blending, staining, glazing, or topcoat.
    • A little SeaPaint goes a very long way. Dip accordingly.
    • Don't over-brush. Hit it and quit it

    Colors and FinishesSeaPaints Disc Pile Collage


    SeaPaint comes in multiple colors and finishes. The technique is the same across the entire line, so once you've got the method down, you can use it with any color in the collection. Both the "Secret" formula in the bottle and the regular formula in the jar distress easy. The one in the bottle, dries more than twice as fast and is perfect for highly worn and blended looks.

    New colors are released when we open. Keep in mind we are closed nearly all year long with the exception of a few dates.

    Warning: SeaPaint is only available for purchase a few times a year. 

    Join the waiting list or Patreon if you want 1st dibs when the colors drop.


    Ready to get started? Shop for SeaPaint 

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    SeaPaint is for more than just furniture

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